ROCKSTAR parking at Captain Cook car park obviously due to the birthday girl’s presence. We r on a spontaneous outing for THE legendary lucky charm,  my semi-irish mother. Bouyed by this parking miracle we promptly and boldly cross the road at a blind corner and head up Lee Lane to the well-worn track along the south edge of Cape Byron. Only a few people on the track,  those that wore professional hiking gear were quite clearly tourists.

Plenty of tall steps got the glutes firing and more steps to the hang-glider’s launch pad where we rested and took in views along Tallow’s to Broken Head and Lennox in the distance.  Multiple whale sightings and contrasting wild cliff views of coastal squals to the south, with pleasantly protected views of Julian Rocks, a glassy bay, and pristine coves to the north.  The view so dizzily serene i need to hold tightly onto the rail to comprehend such surprisingly clean, unpopulated beaches with  aqua waves rolling rhythm onto the sparkling beach, baking in the sun.

An avid birdwatcher, Col tilted her head and listened while i tried to learn tree names. The path turns again and lo! here’s a dark and moody  luxury home. nice. but i cant help admiring the tackier version at Wategos where the combined elements of italian sculpture in a japanese garden with morroccan tiled pool is real “Aussie bloody fusion”.

Intrigued also by an abandoned building site, with a gloomy landslip of expensive dirt tumbling down from the  hillside above.  I was reminded of Monaco… how the extravagance  had somehow slip slided away. Raes looked unimpressive, the Pass Cafe was closed, but noted for next time.  A 4.7km loop, all in all with very pleasing views the whole way, and the whales are, as always, incredibly uplifting.

A skipped lunch now meant that hunger was particularly wearing on us, so a beeline to the Rails for a schooner of Pacific Ale and a feast of mussels in tomato and chili  was in order. Col had a mountain of spring rolls. The food and beer replenished us magnificently as tall storm clouds gathered and billowed bright orange against black inked sky. Later, misting rain settled the dusty streets of The Bay.